Mon week-end égyptien, pt. II
Lately, I've been spending quite a bit of time in Los Angeles. The gay scene in Orange County is sparse and spread out, hitting almost every end of the county but not close enough to really form a community. So we branch out, mostly heading north to Broadway in Long Beach or farther to West Hollywood, just to have the experience of being with others like ourselves.
After the surprise play of Thursday and the planned LACMA trip on Friday, CS and I furthered our LA adventures with a few hours acting as tourists in Hollywood and another play on Saturday evening in West Hollywood. We got on the I-5 a little after 12 noon and traveled fairly smoothly until hitting the interchange with the 101. The traffic morphed into a stop-and-go parking lot with cars merging from all directions. The short trip from the 101 connector to Silver Lake Blvd. (where we finally had enough of the freeway) lasted almost 1 hour. We used this as an opportunity to check out Silver Lake, which is rumored to be a very bear-ish community. Okay -- we were really searching for their outpost of Circus of Books. However, neither of us knew which street that shop was on so we toured the hills and curves of Silver Lake Blvd., winding our way past the Reservoir and all the beautiful homes surrounding it, many Craftsman styled with huge front yards hidden beneath thick, old trees. We eventually passed Circus of Books but declined to stop for a while.
We finally reached Hollywood close to 2:45 and once again hit traffic on Hollywood Blvd., due for the most part to pedestrian traffic. CS parked in a lot close to Hollywood and Highland (a huge shopping mall), and we walked through the oven-like heat onto the Walk of Fame. Our target -- the old Grauman's Egyptian -- sat just across the street, and we hurried over to buy tickets for their short film Forever Hollywood, a one-hour history of Hollywood and the world's fascination with the movies. The Egyptian was the first movie palace built in the little town of Hollywood, trying to capitalize of the glamour and mystique of the movie industry. You approached not a movie theater, but a temple, with Egyptian gods and goddesses painted on the sandstone-colored walls on either side, leading you forward past steps leading to a carved jackal-headed god and through the large columns up to the ticket window. When you saw a movie here, they wanted you to have an experience, and once inside, you walked past more giant black dogs, draped with golden headwear and jewels, into a wide movie theater. It actually resembled more of an old, Egyptian tomb that Howard Carter would have uncovered rather than a theater. A renovation project from a few years ago uncovered the original gilded ceiling with its centerpiece of a giant scarab with colorful sun rays surrouding it and spreading across to the walls. CS and I found our seats and sat back to enjoy the movie.
After the movie, CS needed to find a deck of circular playing cards so we traipsed up and down the Walk of Fame, in and out of the tacky tourist traps shops. I commented about some of the names we stepped on as we walked: Ruby Keeler, The Ritz Brothers, Bud Abbot and Lou Costello (who have separate stars set about 25 feet from one another) and Judy Garland (whose star rests in front of the Ripley's Believe It or Not Museum). Names I'm so familiar with from the movies, TV even cartoons; so much history and celebrity on one little stretch of sidewalk. We wandered over to the Grauman's Chinese, too, just to see all the hand and footprints in cement.
From Hollywood, we stopped for dinner in West Hollywood -- yes, at Hamburger Mary's. My favorite waiter Jason -- tall, dark haired, dressed in a black muscle shirt and tight jeans with no visible signs of underwear; I tried not to drool too much -- served us. My dessert consisted of a single "Livin Longtini," as they called it: vodka, cranberry juice, pomegranate juice and sprite. It was like sipping candy, and I could have easily drunk three or four more before leaving for the theater.
The play was being staged at the Hudson Backstage theater in what's known as Theater Row. It's such a tiny place that we would have missed it if we blinked. I left the car so CS could squeeze into the very narrow space as directed by the attendant. At least the lot was directly across the street from the theater so we didn't have far to walk; my legs were tired from all the walking and standing at the Tut exhibit and the trip down Hollywood Blvd. CS presented his on-line confirmation for the tickets at the box office, and we were directed to the front of the theater to wait with the others in the little coffee shop. Let me just say that the tiny room was jam-packed with wall to wall gay men. And a few straight couples.
The play that evening was Mommie Queerest, a parody of the movie based upon the book written by Christina Crawford. The premise for this: what if Joan Crawford had actually been a man in drag during her career, and everyone in Hollywood, save for Christina and the fans, knew? Before the play began, the audience watched a homemade movie clip of Joan preparing for yet another obsessive-compulsive day in the life of big movie star: scrubbing her hands with a hard-bristled brush, soaking her face in a bowl of ice (drenched with vodka), strutting onto Hollywood Blvd. in the wee hours of the morning to scrub her star on the Walk of Fame with Bon Ami. And then Joan -- played by Jamie Morris -- walks into the theater. Picture it: not a man in drag playing Joan Crawford, but a man in drag playing Faye Dunaway playing Joan Crawford. Lips, hair, make-up, dress, mannerisms: a definite parody, but once she started, the audience laughed and cried for a little over two hours. Brooks Braselman aimed for the comedy jugular with his portrayal of Chrsitina. All four actors gave knockout performances, spoofing almost every scene of the film Mommie Dearest within in an inch of its life. And when Christina complained during one scene that her stake is too raw, that it oozed when she pressed on it, she immediately pressed the steak and sprayed water into the audience -- numerous times! Never have I heard a crowd of gay men doubling over with so much laughter! Sitting in the audience, preparing to take over a part in the production was Danny Pintauro of Who's the Boss? fame. He wiped tears away after the performance, too.
I didn't realize that they were giving another show almost immediately after ours. How could they stand it?! I would be far too exhausted to tackle another show so soon. Yet, gay men filled the lobby as we left, eager to hear some mini-review of the show they were about to see. We didn't disappoint and told them they would love it.
CS and I hopped onto the freeway and decided on a little detour before heading home: a drink or two at The Ozz Supperclub. Caltrans invoked its right to eminent domain in order to expand the I-5, resulting in the impending closure of The Ozz, one of the few gay clubs in Orange County. Neither of us had been there in years so we stopped by, and I ordered two bottles of water. The hunky bartender -- short cut and peppered gray hair, trimmed goatee, toned body showing through his tight black tank top -- smiled and asked if I were sure I only wanted water. I smiled back, promising that we would be back later for something a bit stronger and took our bottles of water to the main dance area. Hundreds of Latin/Hispanic men and women danced across the floor to the ultra-thumping bass and Spanish lyrics, or toured the mirrored edges of the place. Some watched the dancers. Some scanned the crowd looking for a possible connection. Some turned their eyes upward to watch videos on the TV screens. All shapes and sizes and heights. All having a grand time, cutting loose and being themselves. We watched them for a while, then ambled back to the bar. "More water?" the bartender joked. I'm sure I blushed as I ordered a Newcastle for myself and an Adios Motherfucker for CS. (I don't know what's in it, but it's blue and tastes sugary and wonderful.) We lingered at that end of the bar, talking about what was to happen to The Ozz, where would people go; admiring many of the patrons as they strutted around the bar like peacocks; raving about our LA Weekend as the time ticked away.
Image of Grauman's Egyptian from SeeingStars.com; image of Mommie Queerest from Buzz Tickets